Founder Michael Happé started the brand in 2011, initially drawn into aviation watches after people around him started asking if he could make a watch for their squadron. Since then, Gavox has produced nearly 2,000 watch projects for air forces and aviation companies worldwide, across around 60 different models.

But the aviation roots go deeper than that. Michael’s grandfather served with the Flying Tigers as a crew chief, and even was sent to China to train the Chinese to fight the Japanese. And if that backstory wasn’t enough, Michael also has documentation that an ancestor of his, a navigator for the Dutch India Company, reached Australia in 1616, two years before Capt. James Cook. He planted a tin plate that read “we from the Dutch India Company claim this land, land of Holland.” And that story is the soul of Gavox’s watch, the Longitude.

Navigating the world of a new generation of GMT

The Longitude is a GMT built around the very concept that made marine navigation possible, that a reliable timepiece is all you need to know exactly where you are in the world. Starting with the dial, it carries that theme forward with vibes of oceans and exploration. The bracelet, with its pyramid shaped links meeting a polished center link, rolls like a wave when you tilt it in the light. It runs on a Miyota 9075 series GMT movement, features a bi-directional steel bezel, internal rehaut minute markers, a four handed display, date at 6 o’clock, and 200 meters of water resistance. All of that for €1,050.

Michael Happé- Watch Journey

For Michael his watch journey can be traced back to age seven, when his father brought home Chinese watch catalogues and a new and novel quartz watch that could show both time… and date. From there a watch he drowned, several times, then on to Seiko, Casio, Tissot, and eventually a cousin who was the master designer at Longines, who showed him how it was all done and went with him to Hong Kong Watch Fair and Baselworld to figure out the rest to create his own watches.

Outside of his own brand, Michael is a Grand Seiko aficionado. A visit to the Fukushima manufacture after the disaster there, again back in 2011, and a meeting with the director at that Grand Seiko got him hooked. The Snowflake remains his number one watch in his collection that is not one of his own.

Links and Notes

Find Gavox at gavox.com or their Instagram.

Links in the show notes. Find the Analog Explorer in your favorite podcast app or support the show on Substack at analogexplorer.com.

Fac tempus ad explorandum — make the time to explore.

So in an age where the content space feels this wide, where do you go? For these two, the answer was to go deeper not wider.

Jason Hutton pointed me in the direction of his new collaborator, Matt Black, in their new web publication the Timepiece World Journal.

Matt is a communications professional and fellow avid watch enthusiast with a passion for not just watches, but the “human work” of the stories behind them. Together, they are building the Timepiece World Journal as a new editorial platform focused not on specs and reviews, but on the people and stories behind the watches we collect and love.

Right now it is a two man show, but they are working on building out a team of talented writers and enthusiasts. From day one, Matt and Jason have committed to no paid content. No advertorial. No brands buying their way into the feed. For anyone who remembers the advertorial conversations that rocked some of the bigger outlets a few years back, you’ll understand why that matters to many in the #watchfam. They aim to have the Journal’s goal be as simple and honest as possible: feature the brands and watchmakers they are genuinely passionate about, and let the stories speak for themselves.

Links in the show notes. Find the Analog Explorer in your favorite podcast app or support the show on Substack at analogexplorer.com.

Fac tempus ad explorandum — make the time to explore.

Timepiece World Journal | Give Aways!

As part of the Timepiece World Journal launch, they are running two giveaways. A Zanea watch for a lucky follower who signs up to their mailing list at timepieceworld.com, and a Laco watch for a lucky follower who follows them on Instagram at @timepieceworldjournal. Both draws close at the end of May after the Montreal Timepiece Show.

Links of Note | Timepiece World Journal

Follow along, sign up, and keep an eye on what these two are building.

• Timepiece World Journal

  • On Instagram

• The man, the myth, the legend behind Matt Black ink

• Canadian Timepiece Shows

My friend Dan over at the Zulu Time Podcast has said it for years, and the 2026 Vancouver Timepiece Show proved it once again: You show up for the watches, but you stay for the people. And sometimes the people show up for you.

Ken as Arken Watch Co. wasn’t at the show as a brand this year. No table, no speakeasy (this year), just Ken as a fellow lover of watches and the #watchfam checking out the floor as a regular attendee and catching up with friends.

So naturally, we caught up as we went on walk-about on the floor and handed him a mic as we did for a little audio tour, though fair warning, this one was recorded at peak hour on day one, so the audio has a bit more show floor character than usual.

Professionally, Ken’s got a busy year ahead. The Sage Grey Alterum (on wrist at the show) that debuted at British Watchmaker’s Day is on its way.

And the long-awaited Model 3 is finally ready and there may be a few collaborations and smaller projects that may also be in the pipeline.

Regardless of being a brand owner, Ken is just like any one of us in the #watchfam; eager to check out and trying out watches from any of the brands. We got briefly distracted by Baltic’s new Worldtime with a stone dial, which sounds very much worth getting distracted by. More on that when Remi gets on the mic later in the feed…

Links of note | Arken Watches

• Analog Explorer Episode 35 - from last year’s Vancouver Timepiece Show
  

• The Form & Function Podcast

  • Form & Function on Instagram

• Arken on Instagram

• Arken Watches

Links in the show notes. Find the Analog Explorer in your favorite podcast app or support the show on Substack at analogexplorer.com.

Fac tempus ad explorandum — make the time to explore.

Last year, the conversations from the show centered on what I called the shifting sands of global trade, with tariffs, uncertainty, and how brands were navigating constantly moving ground. A year on, by and large our favorite brands are still standing and things seem to have stabilized. So this time around, I wanted to shift the focus to something closer to the heart of the Analog Explorer: community.

In the #watchfam there are so many different ways we share our enthusiasm for horology, and the interviews going into this season with the Vancouver Timepiece Show are going to highlight a few new and different ones.

Jason Hutton and Matt Black are teaming up to launch the all-new Timepiece World Journal, a new editorial platform focused on reviews, specs, and all the things we watch nerds love, but with a genuine commitment to storytelling and the human work behind the hobby.

James Stacey of The Grey NATO and Editor in Chief of Hodinkee joins me as we completely nerd out on all things audio, reminisce about the PNW, but also cut to the heart of watch enthusiasm. “It’s never been cheaper or more fun to learn about watches,” Stacey shared, and then some. “Whether you find your person on YouTube…or a platform like Hodinkee, we’ve never had more peers cranking out incredible content.”

But none of it exists without the watches, the watchmakers, and the brands behind them.

I also met up with Andrea and Ryan of Makato Watches, a couple who turned a cancer diagnosis that had a three-month death sentence, into the inspiration for something new. Three and a half years later, Andrea is thankfully almost cancer-free. But it was their bucket list trip, and a mindset that life is truly to short, to Japan that became the creative foundation for Ryan’s watch designs.

Talking and getting to know them, and their story reminded me that in the end, regardless of the watch we wear or don’t; we are all on borrowed time. When life is that short, your perspective changes. And for them, that change led to building something lasting.

There are also old friends of the Analog Explorer returning with updates, as well as some new voices in the #watchfam.

Stay tuned to the feed. Interviews are rolling out in the months ahead. Find the Analog Explorer in your favorite podcast app of choice, or support the show on Substack at analogexplorer.com.

And Fac tempus ad explorandum — make the time to explore.

Subscribe now

What stood out to both Jason and I was the crowd itself. People weren’t just coming from across Vancouver or even Canada. Saskatoon, Calgary, the UK, Washington, California... the #watchfam are making a full weekend out of it, treating Vancouver as the destination and the show as part of the reason to make the trip to the PNW.

On the brand side, it was great to see familiar friends like Baltic, Christopher Ward, and Elliot Brown back on the floor, just to name a few. For me there were some new standout brands too. 22 Studio, a Taiwanese brand led by an industrial designer working with concrete as a watch material, was unlike anything else at the show. Catching up with Mike Pearson of Christopher Ward is always a treat, and honestly a feat, given the CW booth was easily one of the busiest on the floor. And it was great to see James Stacey, editor-in-chief at Hodinkee and one half of The Grey NATO, in attendance alongside Marathon Watches and Roldorf Watch Co., with TGN hosting an after-show party at Roldorf’s shop. A sign of just how much gravity this show pulls in the #watchfam community.

Looking ahead, the Pipe Shop is already locked in for next year, last full weekend of April in 2027, with Jason starting to think beyond the exhibition floor maybe even toward outdoor activations and experiences that tap into everything that makes Vancouver, and the PNW, such a special backdrop for all of this.

Montreal is joining what people are already naturally calling the “Canadian Timepiece Show Series” at the end of May. Honestly, that title fits with now a trio of shows.

Head over to the Timepiece Show website for more, and especially if you’re eyeing tickets for one of the upcoming shows. A genuine thank you to Jason and the entire Timepiece Show team for continuing to welcome me back as a content creator from the PNW. Full interviews are rolling out on the Analog Explorer podcast feed. Stay tuned.

Wrist Check’n

If you made it out, you already know, that there was always something for everyone on that floor. Whether it was a thoughtful design that stayed with you, a new brand to follow, or a conversation that lingered long after you left the exhibition hall; there is such a strong sense of community around the show.

And if you couldn’t make it in person, stay tuned to the feed. Interviews from the show will be rolling out on the Analog Explorer Podcast in the weeks to come, going deeper with some of our “friends in the watchfam” behind the stories, brands, and timepieces that defined this year’s show.

More to come in your favorite podcast app of choice and thank you for being part of this community.

Off-the-cuff shots from around the show

From the Instagram grid

Armed with nothing more than paper and pencil, Sinziana creates jaw-dropping portraits of watches that leap off the page with photographic realism. I first encountered one of her pieces tucked into a media bag, it looked like a Fears watch print or promo at first glance. It wasn’t until later that I realized it wasn’t a photo at all, it was pencil. Her work is that good.

Sinziana shared her artistic journey, which began with years of traditional portraiture before watches became her chosen subject. What makes her work so striking is not just the detail, but the depth. Whether it’s a grand complication from Breguet, the complexity of A. Lange & Söhne double split, or the raw textures of a leather strap, she gravitates toward what challenges her most. If it doesn’t intimidate her, she says, it’s probably not going to excite her either.

We also talked about her background in architecture and interior design, and how the technical training for perspective, geometry, light and shadow, forms the backbone of her practice today. While she’s never taken formal fine art courses, her years drafting by hand at architecture school in Romania gave her the tools to turn graphite into dimension and motion.

Some of her works take upwards of 150+ hours to complete. Many are commissions—strictly one-of-one pieces she won’t reproduce, because the connection with the collector is part of the process. “They tell me what they love about the watch, and I try to capture that,” she said. Her personal projects, like her glitch-effect Seamaster (which I highly recommend you check out), push boundaries even further.

When I asked my usual closer—Why watches?—her answer was heartfelt. Watches, she said, are nostalgic and intimate. They’re not just accessories, they’re memory keepers. In a digital world, there’s something deeply human about the mechanical, the tactile, and the handmade; regardless if it’s a watch or a pencil drawing.

You really have to see Sinziana’s work to believe it. Head over to sinzianaiordache.com or follow her on Instagram @sinzianaiordache to see what it looks like when analog art meets horological obsession.

A big thanks, as always, to the Vancouver Timepiece Show. Stay updated on where the show heads next at timepieceshow.com.

For Jérôme, good design isn’t about chasing trends or copying vintage cues, it’s about capturing emotion through form, all while building something that can take a hit and keep ticking. “Why choose between pretty and robust?” he asked. “When you don’t have to choose, it becomes the watch you just reach for every day.”

That philosophy shows up clearly in the 5303 dive watch. Complete with its unique twin-scale bezel (that I adore), combining hour and minute tracking on a split-material ceramic and steel insert, it’s a tool watch that doesn’t shout, but definitely speaks.

We dug into Serica’s design ethos, from sterile dials to intentionally restrained branding. The goal? Make the watch speak for itself. “If I have to slap a big logo on it to be recognized…” Jérôme said, “it’s not good enough.” Instead, Serica puts design through its paces until it’s strong enough to stand alone, whether worn under a suit cuff or strapped over a drysuit cuff.

Serica’s current catalog stretches from robust field/dive watches to the refined yet capable Parade 1174, a watch that Jérôme wears daily as it earns the kind of patina only a year of real-world wear can create. Even with the abundance of polished services, he sees patina “…like wrinkles on a beautiful face,” he said. “Would you rather age with memories, or look like a statue?”

We also looked ahead at what’s next for Serica: more colorful expressions of the Parade, development of a new dive watch (known now as 5303, which I got to see without a camera in hand), and a chronograph project slowly (and thoughtfully) cooking. Jérôme hinted that while Serica will stay true to its aesthetic, now that the brand has established a recognizable design language, there’s room to play.

We closed the conversation with a familiar question: Why watches? For Jérôme, it’s about committing to a craft that blends utility, emotion, and legacy. From bartender to watch journalist to co-founder, he found his calling in creating objects that are functional, mechanical, and beautiful.

To see what Serica is building next, visit serica-watches.com and follow @sericawatches on Instagram.

Huge thanks to the Vancouver Timepiece Show for bringing these conversations to life—keep an eye on timepieceshow.com for their next stop in Toronto.

If you’ve ever asked, “Why so serious?” while doomscrolling past silver-and-black dive watch reels or posts, Studio Underd0g is your antidote. Founded by Richard Benc in 2021, the brand launched with a Kickstarter and a mission: make great watches that don’t take themselves too seriously. And they’ve stuck to it—with colorways like Watermelon, Mint Choc Chip, and the latest duo, Avocado and Guac. They’ve managed to blend horological craftsmanship with joyful whimsy.

George and I talked about how the brand walks the fine line between cheeky design and thoughtful watchmaking. “At a glance, it’s fun and gimmicky,” he said, “but when you dig deeper, there’s a lot of design process under the hood.” From sapphire crystals shaped like soft domes to textures that elevate their vibrant dials, every detail is considered. Their playful aesthetic has become a calling card in the watch world—and a conversation starter across the collecting spectrum.

It’s not just the design that resonates—it’s the vibe. “We’re not weighed down by heritage,” George said. “We’re a new brand, which means we can make our own rules.” That freedom lets them try new things, like limited collaborations (see the Passionfruit collab with Moser) or shows-only releases (see the Gimlet with Fears Watches, which sold out in a single day).

Assembly is done in the UK near Reading, with parts sourced globally—including Seagull ST19 movements customized with a black baseplate exclusive to Studio Underd0g. They’ve weathered the impact of recent global trade shifts and tariffs by holding prices steady and leaning into their strong UK roots. As a proud member of the British Watch Alliance, they’re part of the movement to revive UK-based watchmaking.

The team? Just five people—with a sixth on the way. Yet, they manage to punch way above their weight. George himself joined about six months ago and now handles everything from social video to in-person events, like this one in Vancouver.

When I asked him my signature closer—why watches?—he answered with honest hesitation. He doesn’t have a long family legacy or a watch handed down from his grandfather. What he has is curiosity, an eye for detail, and a love of tactile analog things—like cameras, records, and yes, winding a watch every morning. “I’m a vibes guy,” he admitted. And really, isn’t that what it’s all about?

Explore more of Studio Underd0g’s color-packed lineup at studiounderd0g.com (remember—the “o” is a zero), or follow along on Instagram at @studio.underd0g.

Thanks again to the Vancouver Timepiece Show for making these conversations possible. Find out where they’re headed next at timepieceshow.com.

From his early inspiration with a childhood Timex to creating a brand that fuses form, function, and fearless creativity, José doesn’t just design watches—he reimagines how we tell time altogether. Isotope’s timepieces aren’t based on heritage homages or vintage revival. They’re bold, round, ergonomic expressions rooted in science fiction, 1930s streamlining, and a spirit of playful disruption.

We talked about his newest dials (as of September) made from straw marquetry—yes, actual dyed and pressed straw sourced from a single artisan in Burgundy, France, and hand-assembled under a microscope and apnea by one of only three micro-marquetry artists in the world. Each dial takes up to three weeks to complete and is “100% vegan” (as we jokingly brought up in the episode), making every piece a one-of-one in both material and mood. And while these dials could easily command luxury pricing (José saw a similar piece go for 70,000 CHF at Watches & Wonders), his watches start at just around €4,000.

That balance of innovation and accessibility is core to Isotope. Whether it’s their “donut crystal” chronograph with pusher-perfect ergonomics, a dual-disc GMT, or the upcoming OVNI (where the entire dial jumps), Isotope watches don’t just break molds—they refuse to acknowledge them in the first place.

We also touched on the tough stuff—like how recent U.S. tariffs on Swiss-made watches have created hesitation in the American market, which makes up 70% of Isotope’s customer base. Still, José is committed to honoring pre-orders at the same price and finding ways to soften the impact for his collectors. “We shouldn’t be supporting a 10% tariff,” he says, “It’s absurd.”

So why watches? His answer was simple, “I don’t know how to build cars.” But beneath that joke was a deeper truth. For José, a watch is a wearable expression of mindset, of identity, of the way we see the world. In his world, color, creativity, and comfort are non-negotiable.

To explore more of José’s unconventional and beautiful timepieces, visit isotopewatches.com or follow @isotopewatches on Instagram.

Thanks again to the Vancouver Timepiece Show—check timepieceshow.com to see where it’s heading next.

While some brands build from heritage, Paulin builds from creativity. With a background rooted in typography and graphic design, Paulin’s watches are what I’d call “font-forward”—with dials that are expressive, playful, and purposefully different. That’s no accident. When the brand officially joined forces with AnOrdain a couple years ago, they brought in Imogen, AnOrdain’s dial designer, as creative director. The result? A studio-led approach to watchmaking that puts visual design at the forefront.

During our chat, Katie and I dove into Paulin’s collaborative spirit. From their newest project with Chicago-based artist Crystal Zapata to a previous collab with San Jose’s Ono Type Co., Paulin thrives on cross-disciplinary partnerships that bring new perspectives into watch design. Katie herself wears just one watch—a rare unicorn in the #watchfam—and it’s one of the Crystal Zapata pieces. Designed around celestial timekeeping and planetary rotation, the dial and engraved caseback evoke a deep connection to natural rhythms and the joy of analog time.

We also explored Paulin’s Modal Collection, their core line that comes in quartz, manual, and automatic movements. Modular by name and by nature, the collection is designed to allow case swaps and movement flexibility. And yes—if you’re wondering—they’ve even given one of their quartz models an exhibition caseback. Why? Because it looks cool. And because Paulin’s about having fun with the details, even when it breaks with tradition.

But it’s not just about looks. Paulin is also serious about sustainability. Their packaging is made of cork, sourced and processed in Portugal by 3D Cork. It’s lightweight, renewable, and fully recyclable—even pulped and reused if returned. As Katie put it, “We’re trying to be as transparent as possible in what we make, and where we source it.”

Production happens mostly in Glasgow, but with a new partnership with Roldorf & Co., Paulin now has assembly and distribution in Canada too—making this debut at the Vancouver Timepiece Show not just a showcase, but a milestone.

Want to see what Paulin’s all about? Follow them on Instagram at @paulin_watches or visit their shop at paulinwatches.com.

Special thanks again to the Vancouver Timepiece Show for creating a space where design, community, and horology collide. Check timepieceshow.com to find out where the show is headed next.

Originally founded in the 1980s to supply watches to the French Navy, Jacques Bianchi was resurrected in 2021 with the launch of the JB200. Since then, the brand has stayed true to its roots while finding new ways to tell stories through design.

Case in point: the Pulpro Octopus edition, a dive watch with a near full dial-sized cephalopod front and center—a tribute to Marseille’s cultural symbol and a nod to a real octopus monument sunk in an underwater museum just off the city’s coast.

We talked about what makes these watches different. From the Monnin-style cases and signature left-hand crown (a practical French Navy spec to avoid interference with dive gear), to collaborations that celebrate local art and heritage, every piece carries a deeper meaning. Omer shared how one of their limited editions, created in partnership with the Marégraphe—France’s official sea-level reference point—helps support restoration efforts for the historic monument.

As a diver, Marseille sounds like a dream: warm Mediterranean waters, rich maritime history, and now, an octopus sculpture at 10–15 meters depth waiting to be discovered.

We also talked production. Jacques Bianchi watches are assembled in Marseille, using Swiss movements and parts sourced from both France and Switzerland. With prices ranging from €1,000 to €1,500, many of their pieces are released via pre-order—giving fans early access at lower prices while keeping the model runs limited and intentional.

When I asked my signature closer—why watches?—the answers were rooted in story and connection. For Omer, it was about appreciating beautiful objects with rich heritage. For Benjamin, it began with seeing Rolexes on Instagram, but quickly grew into a passion for vintage-inspired design and the kind of storytelling Jacques Bianchi makes possible.

These aren’t just dive watches. They’re wearable tributes to place, memory, and Marseille itself. Whether you’re drawn by the lume, the legacy, or that perfectly weird octopus brain, Jacques Bianchi is one of those brands that sticks with you—if you know, you know.

To learn more about Jacques Bianchi, visit jacquesbianchi.com or follow them on Instagram at @montresbianchi.

Special thanks to the Vancouver Timepiece Show for bringing us all together—head to timepieceshow.com to see where the next stop will be.

Matt shared the story behind their latest collaboration with street artist Penfold—transforming a familiar Cambridge mural into a burst of pop-art geometry on a limited edition dial. The result? A watch that gets nicknames like the “Miami Vice,” the “Taco Bell cup,” or, what it immediately reminded me of, “Trapper Keeper” for those who see it.

We also talked about Beaucroft’s core lines:

• Signature, the original design, which remains close to Matt’s heart—especially the “Eden Green” version, named after his daughter who was born the week the dial colors were chosen.

• Seeker, a more traditional dress watch.

• Element, a sporty design that hints at where the brand is heading.

That direction includes looking to develop a new GMT, Matt’s first step toward something more functional while still holding true to Beaucroft’s balance of elegance and personality. His approach is all about adding capability while stripping the dial back visually, as he hones his harmony of form and function.

Assembly takes place in Reading with Horologium, a small UK-based partner that gives Beaucroft the flexibility to do small runs and limited editions, including one-offs for collectors. This kind of close-knit, hands-on collaboration is what makes the microbrand space so exciting.

When I asked Matt my signature question—why watches?—his answer was rooted in storytelling. Trained as a product designer, he spent years designing appliances that were made to become obsolete. Watches, he realized, are the opposite: objects of meaning that connect generations, reflect identity, and carry the weight of memory. “There’s nothing quite like that,” he said—and I couldn’t agree more.

You can explore Beaucroft’s full collection or pick up a piece at beaucroftwatches.com, and follow their story on Instagram at @beaucroftwatches.

Special thanks again to the Vancouver Timepiece Show—check out timepieceshow.com to see where the show is headed next.

ARKEN began not in a studio or boardroom, but during lockdown. Then a content director grounded by COVID, Ken found himself diving headfirst into Seiko modding. That tinkering led to deeper questions: what if he could create something original and something the best he can for the #wathfam.

His latest piece, the ARKEN Alterum, is a standout in form and function. Built around a Miyota 9015-series base with a custom GMT-like dual time module and AM/PM apertures, it delivers a level of complexity and usability that punches well above its £600 price tag. Why titanium? Ken wanted something different, something lightweight, durable, and toolish. This formed the design language of his brand. “Once we launched our first watch in titanium,” he said, “it just became part of who we are.”

We also got into the realities of global trade and tariffs. While some brands scramble to adjust, Ken has a calm and measured approach, thanks in part to assembling in the UK.

When I asked him my usual closer, why watches?, Ken kept it real: “Why not?” For him, it’s more about the emotional connection and the joy of creating something that lives on someone’s wrist, beyond his own timeline. “There’s no greater feeling than seeing someone come up to the booth wearing something I made,” he told me.

So, if you haven’t already, meet Our Ken. He is not just building watches, but building relationships, one titanium case at a time.

You can follow Ken on Instagram at @arkenwatchco or explore his creations at arken.uk.

Big thanks again to the Vancouver Timepiece Show—check timepieceshow.com to find out where they’re heading next.

Just ahead of our recording, Farer launched their new Lissom Collection, a refined series of 38mm watches with sub-seconds at six o’clock, names inspired by historic English botanists, and a floral, organic color palette that’s playful. And yes, that signature bronze inlaid crown is still there.

Farer has always been, and continues to be, a brand that blends classic British design with bold personality. James teased the next generation of their Aqua Compressor series, Farer’s take on the classic super compressor diver, but with a bit more edge. Expect new colors, a return of the beloved black Endeavour, titanium cases, and an upgraded Le Joux-Perret movement. While the price may tick up slightly, the specs-to-value ratio for which Farer is known remains intact.

Beyond the watches, we talked about James’ own path, from freelance watch writer and content creator to working inside the industry with Farer. His passion was clear, especially when he described his favorite part of the job: connecting with the community and sharing stories through content, whether it’s snapping the perfect shot or making a killer video.

So, why watches? For James, it comes down to the universality (yes, he had to work Universal in there). “It’s one of the few things you can wear every day that blends function, style, and identity,” he said. It’s not about gender, trends, or tech. It’s about wearing something that feels like you—and Farer designs with that exact spirit in mind.

To keep up with Farer’s latest releases, including the Lissom Collection and upcoming Aqua Compressor drop.

Follow them on Instagram @fareruniversal or visit farer.com.

Noctua Athene

Before watches, JP was a long-haul driver crisscrossing Canada. But when COVID hit and his contract disappeared, so did the rhythm of life on the road. Like many of us during that time, JP found himself reevaluating everything. What began as a hobby, watchmaking and tinkering by way of YouTube videos, grew into building a few pieces for himself and his son, then quickly became a new calling.

Established October of 2024, “Noctua” comes from Noctua Athene, the little owl of Greek mythology associated with Athena, wisdom, and strategy. Based in Edmonton, Alberta, JP sources his components from Asia but assembles everything himself in Canada, creating tool watches that are tactile, no-nonsense, and heavy on the lume. And I mean heavy; chapter rings, bezels, logos, even the eyes on his patches glow. If it can be lumed, JP probably already has.

From fully brushed, utilitarian finishes (as a former Harley rider, JP has no patience for polishing chrome) to solid workhorse Seiko NH movements, and with prices ranging from $525 CAD up to $725 CAD, Noctua’s watches are made to be worn and used.

When asked why watches, JP’s answer says it all: it’s not work—it’s meditative, meaningful, and something he genuinely loves. “If you love what you do,” he told me, “you never work a day in your life.” Or perhaps it proves that time flies if you’re having fun?

Interested in seeing what JP’s building next? Follow Noctua on Instagram @noctuawatchcorp or check out his creations at noctuawatchcorp.com. And of course, a big thank you to the Vancouver Timepiece Show for another great gathering—visit timepieceshow.com for updates on where the show heads next.

Bonus : JP’s wrist check

🎧 Subscribe and listen to the full episode now, wherever you get your podcasts, or support the Analog Explorer on Substack.

In this edition of the Analog Explorer Podcast, I catch up with Rémi Martin, the showroom manager of Baltic’s New York boutique, live from the Vancouver Timepiece Show.

Rémi highlighted how rare it is for a microbrand to have even one physical showroom, let alone three around the world. For Baltic, these spaces are more than just retail locations, they’re vital opportunities to offer any potential wearer a direct hands-on connection with the brand. Whether it’s through their showrooms or events like the Vancouver Timepiece Show, Baltic creates space for both seasoned watch-enthusiasts and curious watch-muggles to discover a personal link to the pieces they produce. Trying on a watch lets people connect to a piece, whether it’s a bold statement like the Prismic with its hardstone dial or the beloved Aquascaphe, in a way no online render ever could. As Rémi pointed out, watches today aren’t about necessity; they’re about desire. They’re emotional objects, often tied to memories, legacies, or identity. “You don’t need a watch anymore,” he said. “So if it’s not fun, if you don’t feel something when you wear it, what’s the point?”

2024 Season : Refining Baltic

This season, Baltic is looking at refinement and focusing on elevating what already resonates. That includes a fresh take on the Hermétique line. Playfully dubbed “Hermétique Summer,” the brand is possibly playing with new materials and subtle design shifts that gently push the collection beyond Baltic’s usual comfort zone. As for the Aquascaphe, Rémi teased some quiet but meaningful updates. He didn’t reveal much (I tried), but if you’re a fan of the line, then it’s definitely something to keep an eye on.

If you want to be the first to know what’s cooking, definitely give Baltic a follow on Instagram @balticwatches or better yet, sign up for their newsletter at baltic-watches.com to stay in the loop.

Big thanks to the Vancouver Timepiece Show for creator and media access for these conversations. Keep your eye on timepieceshow.com for updates on the upcoming Toronto Timepiece Show.

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Previously, on the Analog Explorer

Our interview was during one of the busy times at the show, but Austen and I carved out a moment to talk. We covered what makes something truly timeless and how VAER’s design approach finds ways to balance that timelessness while speaking to someone’s personality and lifestyle. He shared what first pulled him into mechanical watches. In a world full of disposable tech, the idea that something could still be ticking a hundred years from now really stuck with him; a sentiment many of us in the #watchfam share. That idea of longevity, of building something that lasts or even outlasts a wearer, is a part of what got him hooked. As he put it, “Even in a hundred years, if you wanted to make a gear, you could still make that gear to power that watch.” That kind of staying power is rare in a constantly updating digital world. It is becoming more and more rare with every new upgrade cycle.

Origin Story

VAER was founded in 2016 by two friends, Reagan Cook & Ryan Torres, living in Venice Beach, California with a vision to create timeless, affordable, and reliably waterproof watches. From the start, they focused on American sourcing, beginning with locally made leather straps despite early quality challenges. Over nearly a decade, VAER has grown to offer “the most affordable USA-assembled watches” and a wide range of movement options, including quartz, solar quartz, and automatic.

“We're proud to sell the most affordable USA-assembled watches on the market, the ‘most American’ quartz watches on the market (measured by source origin value), and the widest array of USA-assembled movement options, providing customers the choice of USA-built quartz, solar quartz, and automatics.”
-VAER Watches

VAER’s ethos is equally grounded and intentional; make something from the start that is “ocean-ready.” Their lineup is built around that philosophy, meaning their watches are not just water resistant to hang-ten for the surf of California, but made to take a beating in and out of the water. They back this with their strong “water proof warranty,” making their pieces true go-anywhere, do-anything companions.

VAER’s design make them an easy watch to recommend for anyone, including perhaps that watch-muggle friend. They have a lineup that fits the vox populi of style without trying too hard or breaking the bank. Each model taps into iconic design cues while staying approachable, which makes it a brand that brings mechanical watchmaking, or hard-wearing quartz, within reach of just about any lifestyle.

If you’re curious about VAER, check them out at vaerwatches.com or on Instagram at @vaeradventure.

Big thanks to the Vancouver Timepiece Show for creator and media access for these conversations. Keep your eye on timepieceshow.com for updates on the upcoming Toronto Timepiece Show.

🎧 Subscribe and listen to the full episode now wherever you get your podcasts or support the Analog Explorer on Substack.

As a follow-up to that episode, Typsim has since launched the Time Traveler (fair warning to the #watchfam—you might want one after seeing it; I know I do), the Architect, and teased an upcoming skin diver that’s currently in the works.

Matt dives deeper into the story behind the Architect, a watch he created to honor his background in architecture, his passion for watches, and now shares his plan to gift one to a future architecture graduate as a way to pay it forward. He also reflects on what makes design meaningful and puts the question back to aspiring architects: What does good design mean to you? From what I’ve seen in both Matt and Typsim, good design isn’t just about looks, but also making something beautiful that serves a purpose, tells a story, and creates a personal connection. That mindset runs through Typsim’s design language, with its mid-century influences subtly shaped by the creative and adventurous vibes of the Pacific Northwest.

“Typsim (‘tip-sim) is a watch company focused on high-quality, durable, and precise mechanical watches. The name is derivative of abbreviations coming from my professional life as an architect. Typ = typical and sim = similar. Like MUJI or ACME, the name is meant to invoke non-branded, quality goods – in this case watches.”

-TYPSIM

Be sure to follow them on Instagram at @TypsimWatches or stay connected and up to date via their website

Big thanks to the Vancouver Timepiece Show for creator and media access for these conversations. Keep your eye on timepieceshow.com for updates on the upcoming Toronto Timepiece Show.

🎧 Subscribe and listen to the full episode now wherever you get your podcasts or support the Analog Explorer on Substack.

Elliot Brown Watches

What sets Elliot Brown apart is their obsession with durability and real-world performance. They’re not just building watches, they’re building tools; from their Canford with its dual crowns and an internal bezel and shock-resistant cases, to the Holton Professional, a watch originally developed for military and special forces use, and onto now their patented achievment of the Beachmaster. Every model is designed with usability and legibility in mind. Whether you’re exploring the outdoors, navigating the everyday grind, or knocking down doors for a living, Elliot Brown watches are built to thrive where others don’t.

I’ve been wearing my Holton for a while now, and it’s a well-loved tool. Its biggest draw, as I’ve said on many podcasts, is that it’s unapologetically legible. With its bold no-nonsense lume and a dial that reads clean in any light, even in our often murky PNW waters, it is a solid tool. I’ve taken it diving in the Salish Sea, trekking through the North Cascades, and it’s handled everything without missing a beat. It’s the kind of watch that doesn’t clamor for attention, but quietly earns its keep, one adventure at a time. Every nick in the case tells a story…especially the first. I shared this one over on the Zulu Time Podcast, but it’s worth retelling: while setting up for a dive, my Holton took a nose dive off the bed of my dive partner’s pickup truck. It dropped over five feet right onto, of course, the only rock in the vicinity. I braced for the worst, expecting a chipped or cracked crystal. But when I picked it up…the scratch wiped clean off the case and crystal, and the only mark left behind was a small dent/nick in the case. Surely, I thought, the movement had to have taken a hit. But after the dive, I checked the timing, and it hadn’t skipped a single beat, not even by a second. Honestly, I think that rock came out of it worse than the Holton did.

Holton at about 6200ft in the N. Cascades

Holton Diving in the PNW

Shifting Sands of Global Trade

This conversation also kicks off a broader theme you’ll hear woven throughout my interviews from the Vancouver Timepiece Show—what I’m calling “The Shifting Sands of Global Trade.” As collectors, makers, and enthusiasts, we usually focus on the watches themselves: what we do with them, where they take us, and the stories they help us tell. But lately, shifting global politics, trade policies, and ever-changing tariffs are starting to impact what could actually make it to our wrists in the first place. It’s a side of the #watchfam story we don’t always talk about, but one that’s becoming harder to ignore.

At the time of recording and publication, Elliot Brown has announced that they have halted sales to the United States due to ongoing tariff challenges.

🇺🇸 Important update for our USA Customers: Due to the recent introduction of significantly increased tariffs on all imports into the United States by President Trump, we’ve had to make the difficult decision to temporarily pause all sales to the USA.

We’re actively exploring solutions and will resume shipping as soon as we can do so fairly—for you and for us.
-Elliot Brown Watches

This is just one example of how trade decisions ripple across borders and hit small, independent brands. This sentiment is echoed by other voices from other independent watchmakers, and we’ll hear how these global forces are, and could continue, shaping their corner of the horological world. From sourcing materials to getting watches into the hands of collectors….

Be sure to follow them on Instagram at @EBwatches or check out their Journal to stay connected, and stay up to date via their website elliotbrownwatches.com

Big thanks to the Vancouver Timepiece Show for creator and media access for these conversations. Keep your eye on timepieceshow.com for updates on the upcoming Toronto Timepiece Show.

🎧 Subscribe and listen to the full episode now wherever you get your podcasts or support the Analog Explorer on Substack.