Armed with nothing more than paper and pencil, Sinziana creates jaw-dropping portraits of watches that leap off the page with photographic realism. I first encountered one of her pieces tucked into a media bag, it looked like a Fears watch print or promo at first glance. It wasn’t until later that I realized it wasn’t a photo at all, it was pencil. Her work is that good.

sinzianaiordache

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Sinziana shared her artistic journey, which began with years of traditional portraiture before watches became her chosen subject. What makes her work so striking is not just the detail, but the depth. Whether it’s a grand complication from Breguet, the complexity of A. Lange & Söhne double split, or the raw textures of a leather strap, she gravitates toward what challenges her most. If it doesn’t intimidate her, she says, it’s probably not going to excite her either.

sinzianaiordache

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We also talked about her background in architecture and interior design, and how the technical training for perspective, geometry, light and shadow, forms the backbone of her practice today. While she’s never taken formal fine art courses, her years drafting by hand at architecture school in Romania gave her the tools to turn graphite into dimension and motion.

Some of her works take upwards of 150+ hours to complete. Many are commissions—strictly one-of-one pieces she won’t reproduce, because the connection with the collector is part of the process. “They tell me what they love about the watch, and I try to capture that,” she said. Her personal projects, like her glitch-effect Seamaster (which I highly recommend you check out), push boundaries even further.

sinzianaiordache

A post shared by @sinzianaiordache

When I asked my usual closer—Why watches?—her answer was heartfelt. Watches, she said, are nostalgic and intimate. They’re not just accessories, they’re memory keepers. In a digital world, there’s something deeply human about the mechanical, the tactile, and the handmade; regardless if it’s a watch or a pencil drawing.

You really have to see Sinziana’s work to believe it. Head over to sinzianaiordache.com or follow her on Instagram @sinzianaiordache to see what it looks like when analog art meets horological obsession.

A big thanks, as always, to the Vancouver Timepiece Show. Stay updated on where the show heads next at timepieceshow.com.

For Jérôme, good design isn’t about chasing trends or copying vintage cues, it’s about capturing emotion through form, all while building something that can take a hit and keep ticking. “Why choose between pretty and robust?” he asked. “When you don’t have to choose, it becomes the watch you just reach for every day.”

That philosophy shows up clearly in the 5303 dive watch. Complete with its unique twin-scale bezel (that I adore), combining hour and minute tracking on a split-material ceramic and steel insert, it’s a tool watch that doesn’t shout, but definitely speaks.

We dug into Serica’s design ethos, from sterile dials to intentionally restrained branding. The goal? Make the watch speak for itself. “If I have to slap a big logo on it to be recognized…” Jérôme said, “it’s not good enough.” Instead, Serica puts design through its paces until it’s strong enough to stand alone, whether worn under a suit cuff or strapped over a drysuit cuff.

Serica’s current catalog stretches from robust field/dive watches to the refined yet capable Parade 1174, a watch that Jérôme wears daily as it earns the kind of patina only a year of real-world wear can create. Even with the abundance of polished services, he sees patina “…like wrinkles on a beautiful face,” he said. “Would you rather age with memories, or look like a statue?”

We also looked ahead at what’s next for Serica: more colorful expressions of the Parade, development of a new dive watch (known now as 5303, which I got to see without a camera in hand), and a chronograph project slowly (and thoughtfully) cooking. Jérôme hinted that while Serica will stay true to its aesthetic, now that the brand has established a recognizable design language, there’s room to play.

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We closed the conversation with a familiar question: Why watches? For Jérôme, it’s about committing to a craft that blends utility, emotion, and legacy. From bartender to watch journalist to co-founder, he found his calling in creating objects that are functional, mechanical, and beautiful.

To see what Serica is building next, visit serica-watches.com and follow @sericawatches on Instagram.

Huge thanks to the Vancouver Timepiece Show for bringing these conversations to life—keep an eye on timepieceshow.com for their next stop in Toronto.

If you’ve ever asked, “Why so serious?” while doomscrolling past silver-and-black dive watch reels or posts, Studio Underd0g is your antidote. Founded by Richard Benc in 2021, the brand launched with a Kickstarter and a mission: make great watches that don’t take themselves too seriously. And they’ve stuck to it—with colorways like Watermelon, Mint Choc Chip, and the latest duo, Avocado and Guac. They’ve managed to blend horological craftsmanship with joyful whimsy.

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George and I talked about how the brand walks the fine line between cheeky design and thoughtful watchmaking. “At a glance, it’s fun and gimmicky,” he said, “but when you dig deeper, there’s a lot of design process under the hood.” From sapphire crystals shaped like soft domes to textures that elevate their vibrant dials, every detail is considered. Their playful aesthetic has become a calling card in the watch world—and a conversation starter across the collecting spectrum.

studio.underd0g

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It’s not just the design that resonates—it’s the vibe. “We’re not weighed down by heritage,” George said. “We’re a new brand, which means we can make our own rules.” That freedom lets them try new things, like limited collaborations (see the Passionfruit collab with Moser) or shows-only releases (see the Gimlet with Fears Watches, which sold out in a single day).

Assembly is done in the UK near Reading, with parts sourced globally—including Seagull ST19 movements customized with a black baseplate exclusive to Studio Underd0g. They’ve weathered the impact of recent global trade shifts and tariffs by holding prices steady and leaning into their strong UK roots. As a proud member of the British Watch Alliance, they’re part of the movement to revive UK-based watchmaking.

The team? Just five people—with a sixth on the way. Yet, they manage to punch way above their weight. George himself joined about six months ago and now handles everything from social video to in-person events, like this one in Vancouver.

When I asked him my signature closer—why watches?—he answered with honest hesitation. He doesn’t have a long family legacy or a watch handed down from his grandfather. What he has is curiosity, an eye for detail, and a love of tactile analog things—like cameras, records, and yes, winding a watch every morning. “I’m a vibes guy,” he admitted. And really, isn’t that what it’s all about?

Explore more of Studio Underd0g’s color-packed lineup at studiounderd0g.com (remember—the “o” is a zero), or follow along on Instagram at @studio.underd0g.

Thanks again to the Vancouver Timepiece Show for making these conversations possible. Find out where they’re headed next at timepieceshow.com.

From his early inspiration with a childhood Timex to creating a brand that fuses form, function, and fearless creativity, José doesn’t just design watches—he reimagines how we tell time altogether. Isotope’s timepieces aren’t based on heritage homages or vintage revival. They’re bold, round, ergonomic expressions rooted in science fiction, 1930s streamlining, and a spirit of playful disruption.

We talked about his newest dials (as of September) made from straw marquetry—yes, actual dyed and pressed straw sourced from a single artisan in Burgundy, France, and hand-assembled under a microscope and apnea by one of only three micro-marquetry artists in the world. Each dial takes up to three weeks to complete and is “100% vegan” (as we jokingly brought up in the episode), making every piece a one-of-one in both material and mood. And while these dials could easily command luxury pricing (José saw a similar piece go for 70,000 CHF at Watches & Wonders), his watches start at just around €4,000.

That balance of innovation and accessibility is core to Isotope. Whether it’s their “donut crystal” chronograph with pusher-perfect ergonomics, a dual-disc GMT, or the upcoming OVNI (where the entire dial jumps), Isotope watches don’t just break molds—they refuse to acknowledge them in the first place.

We also touched on the tough stuff—like how recent U.S. tariffs on Swiss-made watches have created hesitation in the American market, which makes up 70% of Isotope’s customer base. Still, José is committed to honoring pre-orders at the same price and finding ways to soften the impact for his collectors. “We shouldn’t be supporting a 10% tariff,” he says, “It’s absurd.”

So why watches? His answer was simple, “I don’t know how to build cars.” But beneath that joke was a deeper truth. For José, a watch is a wearable expression of mindset, of identity, of the way we see the world. In his world, color, creativity, and comfort are non-negotiable.

To explore more of José’s unconventional and beautiful timepieces, visit isotopewatches.com or follow @isotopewatches on Instagram.

Thanks again to the Vancouver Timepiece Show—check timepieceshow.com to see where it’s heading next.

While some brands build from heritage, Paulin builds from creativity. With a background rooted in typography and graphic design, Paulin’s watches are what I’d call “font-forward”—with dials that are expressive, playful, and purposefully different. That’s no accident. When the brand officially joined forces with AnOrdain a couple years ago, they brought in Imogen, AnOrdain’s dial designer, as creative director. The result? A studio-led approach to watchmaking that puts visual design at the forefront.

During our chat, Katie and I dove into Paulin’s collaborative spirit. From their newest project with Chicago-based artist Crystal Zapata to a previous collab with San Jose’s Ono Type Co., Paulin thrives on cross-disciplinary partnerships that bring new perspectives into watch design. Katie herself wears just one watch—a rare unicorn in the #watchfam—and it’s one of the Crystal Zapata pieces. Designed around celestial timekeeping and planetary rotation, the dial and engraved caseback evoke a deep connection to natural rhythms and the joy of analog time.

We also explored Paulin’s Modal Collection, their core line that comes in quartz, manual, and automatic movements. Modular by name and by nature, the collection is designed to allow case swaps and movement flexibility. And yes—if you’re wondering—they’ve even given one of their quartz models an exhibition caseback. Why? Because it looks cool. And because Paulin’s about having fun with the details, even when it breaks with tradition.

But it’s not just about looks. Paulin is also serious about sustainability. Their packaging is made of cork, sourced and processed in Portugal by 3D Cork. It’s lightweight, renewable, and fully recyclable—even pulped and reused if returned. As Katie put it, “We’re trying to be as transparent as possible in what we make, and where we source it.”

Production happens mostly in Glasgow, but with a new partnership with Roldorf & Co., Paulin now has assembly and distribution in Canada too—making this debut at the Vancouver Timepiece Show not just a showcase, but a milestone.

Want to see what Paulin’s all about? Follow them on Instagram at @paulin_watches or visit their shop at paulinwatches.com.

Special thanks again to the Vancouver Timepiece Show for creating a space where design, community, and horology collide. Check timepieceshow.com to find out where the show is headed next.

Originally founded in the 1980s to supply watches to the French Navy, Jacques Bianchi was resurrected in 2021 with the launch of the JB200. Since then, the brand has stayed true to its roots while finding new ways to tell stories through design.

Case in point: the Pulpro Octopus edition, a dive watch with a near full dial-sized cephalopod front and center—a tribute to Marseille’s cultural symbol and a nod to a real octopus monument sunk in an underwater museum just off the city’s coast.

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A post shared by @montresbianchi

We talked about what makes these watches different. From the Monnin-style cases and signature left-hand crown (a practical French Navy spec to avoid interference with dive gear), to collaborations that celebrate local art and heritage, every piece carries a deeper meaning. Omer shared how one of their limited editions, created in partnership with the Marégraphe—France’s official sea-level reference point—helps support restoration efforts for the historic monument.

As a diver, Marseille sounds like a dream: warm Mediterranean waters, rich maritime history, and now, an octopus sculpture at 10–15 meters depth waiting to be discovered.

We also talked production. Jacques Bianchi watches are assembled in Marseille, using Swiss movements and parts sourced from both France and Switzerland. With prices ranging from €1,000 to €1,500, many of their pieces are released via pre-order—giving fans early access at lower prices while keeping the model runs limited and intentional.

When I asked my signature closer—why watches?—the answers were rooted in story and connection. For Omer, it was about appreciating beautiful objects with rich heritage. For Benjamin, it began with seeing Rolexes on Instagram, but quickly grew into a passion for vintage-inspired design and the kind of storytelling Jacques Bianchi makes possible.

These aren’t just dive watches. They’re wearable tributes to place, memory, and Marseille itself. Whether you’re drawn by the lume, the legacy, or that perfectly weird octopus brain, Jacques Bianchi is one of those brands that sticks with you—if you know, you know.

To learn more about Jacques Bianchi, visit jacquesbianchi.com or follow them on Instagram at @montresbianchi.

Special thanks to the Vancouver Timepiece Show for bringing us all together—head to timepieceshow.com to see where the next stop will be.

Matt shared the story behind their latest collaboration with street artist Penfold—transforming a familiar Cambridge mural into a burst of pop-art geometry on a limited edition dial. The result? A watch that gets nicknames like the “Miami Vice,” the “Taco Bell cup,” or, what it immediately reminded me of, “Trapper Keeper” for those who see it.

We also talked about Beaucroft’s core lines:

• Signature, the original design, which remains close to Matt’s heart—especially the “Eden Green” version, named after his daughter who was born the week the dial colors were chosen.

• Seeker, a more traditional dress watch.

• Element, a sporty design that hints at where the brand is heading.

That direction includes looking to develop a new GMT, Matt’s first step toward something more functional while still holding true to Beaucroft’s balance of elegance and personality. His approach is all about adding capability while stripping the dial back visually, as he hones his harmony of form and function.

Assembly takes place in Reading with Horologium, a small UK-based partner that gives Beaucroft the flexibility to do small runs and limited editions, including one-offs for collectors. This kind of close-knit, hands-on collaboration is what makes the microbrand space so exciting.

When I asked Matt my signature question—why watches?—his answer was rooted in storytelling. Trained as a product designer, he spent years designing appliances that were made to become obsolete. Watches, he realized, are the opposite: objects of meaning that connect generations, reflect identity, and carry the weight of memory. “There’s nothing quite like that,” he said—and I couldn’t agree more.

You can explore Beaucroft’s full collection or pick up a piece at beaucroftwatches.com, and follow their story on Instagram at @beaucroftwatches.

Special thanks again to the Vancouver Timepiece Show—check out timepieceshow.com to see where the show is headed next.

ARKEN began not in a studio or boardroom, but during lockdown. Then a content director grounded by COVID, Ken found himself diving headfirst into Seiko modding. That tinkering led to deeper questions: what if he could create something original and something the best he can for the #wathfam.

His latest piece, the ARKEN Alterum, is a standout in form and function. Built around a Miyota 9015-series base with a custom GMT-like dual time module and AM/PM apertures, it delivers a level of complexity and usability that punches well above its £600 price tag. Why titanium? Ken wanted something different, something lightweight, durable, and toolish. This formed the design language of his brand. “Once we launched our first watch in titanium,” he said, “it just became part of who we are.”

We also got into the realities of global trade and tariffs. While some brands scramble to adjust, Ken has a calm and measured approach, thanks in part to assembling in the UK.

When I asked him my usual closer, why watches?, Ken kept it real: “Why not?” For him, it’s more about the emotional connection and the joy of creating something that lives on someone’s wrist, beyond his own timeline. “There’s no greater feeling than seeing someone come up to the booth wearing something I made,” he told me.

So, if you haven’t already, meet Our Ken. He is not just building watches, but building relationships, one titanium case at a time.

You can follow Ken on Instagram at @arkenwatchco or explore his creations at arken.uk.

Big thanks again to the Vancouver Timepiece Show—check timepieceshow.com to find out where they’re heading next.

Just ahead of our recording, Farer launched their new Lissom Collection, a refined series of 38mm watches with sub-seconds at six o’clock, names inspired by historic English botanists, and a floral, organic color palette that’s playful. And yes, that signature bronze inlaid crown is still there.

Farer has always been, and continues to be, a brand that blends classic British design with bold personality. James teased the next generation of their Aqua Compressor series, Farer’s take on the classic super compressor diver, but with a bit more edge. Expect new colors, a return of the beloved black Endeavour, titanium cases, and an upgraded Le Joux-Perret movement. While the price may tick up slightly, the specs-to-value ratio for which Farer is known remains intact.

Beyond the watches, we talked about James’ own path, from freelance watch writer and content creator to working inside the industry with Farer. His passion was clear, especially when he described his favorite part of the job: connecting with the community and sharing stories through content, whether it’s snapping the perfect shot or making a killer video.

So, why watches? For James, it comes down to the universality (yes, he had to work Universal in there). “It’s one of the few things you can wear every day that blends function, style, and identity,” he said. It’s not about gender, trends, or tech. It’s about wearing something that feels like you—and Farer designs with that exact spirit in mind.

To keep up with Farer’s latest releases, including the Lissom Collection and upcoming Aqua Compressor drop.

Follow them on Instagram @fareruniversal or visit farer.com.

Noctua Athene

Before watches, JP was a long-haul driver crisscrossing Canada. But when COVID hit and his contract disappeared, so did the rhythm of life on the road. Like many of us during that time, JP found himself reevaluating everything. What began as a hobby, watchmaking and tinkering by way of YouTube videos, grew into building a few pieces for himself and his son, then quickly became a new calling.

Established October of 2024, “Noctua” comes from Noctua Athene, the little owl of Greek mythology associated with Athena, wisdom, and strategy. Based in Edmonton, Alberta, JP sources his components from Asia but assembles everything himself in Canada, creating tool watches that are tactile, no-nonsense, and heavy on the lume. And I mean heavy; chapter rings, bezels, logos, even the eyes on his patches glow. If it can be lumed, JP probably already has.

From fully brushed, utilitarian finishes (as a former Harley rider, JP has no patience for polishing chrome) to solid workhorse Seiko NH movements, and with prices ranging from $525 CAD up to $725 CAD, Noctua’s watches are made to be worn and used.

When asked why watches, JP’s answer says it all: it’s not work—it’s meditative, meaningful, and something he genuinely loves. “If you love what you do,” he told me, “you never work a day in your life.” Or perhaps it proves that time flies if you’re having fun?

Interested in seeing what JP’s building next? Follow Noctua on Instagram @noctuawatchcorp or check out his creations at noctuawatchcorp.com. And of course, a big thank you to the Vancouver Timepiece Show for another great gathering—visit timepieceshow.com for updates on where the show heads next.

Bonus : JP’s wrist check

🎧 Subscribe and listen to the full episode now, wherever you get your podcasts, or support the Analog Explorer on Substack.

In this edition of the Analog Explorer Podcast, I catch up with Rémi Martin, the showroom manager of Baltic’s New York boutique, live from the Vancouver Timepiece Show.

Rémi highlighted how rare it is for a microbrand to have even one physical showroom, let alone three around the world. For Baltic, these spaces are more than just retail locations, they’re vital opportunities to offer any potential wearer a direct hands-on connection with the brand. Whether it’s through their showrooms or events like the Vancouver Timepiece Show, Baltic creates space for both seasoned watch-enthusiasts and curious watch-muggles to discover a personal link to the pieces they produce. Trying on a watch lets people connect to a piece, whether it’s a bold statement like the Prismic with its hardstone dial or the beloved Aquascaphe, in a way no online render ever could. As Rémi pointed out, watches today aren’t about necessity; they’re about desire. They’re emotional objects, often tied to memories, legacies, or identity. “You don’t need a watch anymore,” he said. “So if it’s not fun, if you don’t feel something when you wear it, what’s the point?”

2024 Season : Refining Baltic

This season, Baltic is looking at refinement and focusing on elevating what already resonates. That includes a fresh take on the Hermétique line. Playfully dubbed “Hermétique Summer,” the brand is possibly playing with new materials and subtle design shifts that gently push the collection beyond Baltic’s usual comfort zone. As for the Aquascaphe, Rémi teased some quiet but meaningful updates. He didn’t reveal much (I tried), but if you’re a fan of the line, then it’s definitely something to keep an eye on.

If you want to be the first to know what’s cooking, definitely give Baltic a follow on Instagram @balticwatches or better yet, sign up for their newsletter at baltic-watches.com to stay in the loop.

Big thanks to the Vancouver Timepiece Show for creator and media access for these conversations. Keep your eye on timepieceshow.com for updates on the upcoming Toronto Timepiece Show.

🎧 Subscribe and listen to the full episode now, wherever you get your podcasts, or support the Analog Explorer on Substack.

Previously, on the Analog Explorer

Our interview was during one of the busy times at the show, but Austen and I carved out a moment to talk. We covered what makes something truly timeless and how VAER’s design approach finds ways to balance that timelessness while speaking to someone’s personality and lifestyle. He shared what first pulled him into mechanical watches. In a world full of disposable tech, the idea that something could still be ticking a hundred years from now really stuck with him; a sentiment many of us in the #watchfam share. That idea of longevity, of building something that lasts or even outlasts a wearer, is a part of what got him hooked. As he put it, “Even in a hundred years, if you wanted to make a gear, you could still make that gear to power that watch.” That kind of staying power is rare in a constantly updating digital world. It is becoming more and more rare with every new upgrade cycle.

Origin Story

VAER was founded in 2016 by two friends, Reagan Cook & Ryan Torres, living in Venice Beach, California with a vision to create timeless, affordable, and reliably waterproof watches. From the start, they focused on American sourcing, beginning with locally made leather straps despite early quality challenges. Over nearly a decade, VAER has grown to offer “the most affordable USA-assembled watches” and a wide range of movement options, including quartz, solar quartz, and automatic.

“We're proud to sell the most affordable USA-assembled watches on the market, the ‘most American’ quartz watches on the market (measured by source origin value), and the widest array of USA-assembled movement options, providing customers the choice of USA-built quartz, solar quartz, and automatics.”
-VAER Watches

VAER’s ethos is equally grounded and intentional; make something from the start that is “ocean-ready.” Their lineup is built around that philosophy, meaning their watches are not just water resistant to hang-ten for the surf of California, but made to take a beating in and out of the water. They back this with their strong “water proof warranty,” making their pieces true go-anywhere, do-anything companions.

VAER’s design make them an easy watch to recommend for anyone, including perhaps that watch-muggle friend. They have a lineup that fits the vox populi of style without trying too hard or breaking the bank. Each model taps into iconic design cues while staying approachable, which makes it a brand that brings mechanical watchmaking, or hard-wearing quartz, within reach of just about any lifestyle.

If you’re curious about VAER, check them out at vaerwatches.com or on Instagram at @vaeradventure.

Big thanks to the Vancouver Timepiece Show for creator and media access for these conversations. Keep your eye on timepieceshow.com for updates on the upcoming Toronto Timepiece Show.

🎧 Subscribe and listen to the full episode now wherever you get your podcasts or support the Analog Explorer on Substack.

As a follow-up to that episode, Typsim has since launched the Time Traveler (fair warning to the #watchfam—you might want one after seeing it; I know I do), the Architect, and teased an upcoming skin diver that’s currently in the works.

Matt dives deeper into the story behind the Architect, a watch he created to honor his background in architecture, his passion for watches, and now shares his plan to gift one to a future architecture graduate as a way to pay it forward. He also reflects on what makes design meaningful and puts the question back to aspiring architects: What does good design mean to you? From what I’ve seen in both Matt and Typsim, good design isn’t just about looks, but also making something beautiful that serves a purpose, tells a story, and creates a personal connection. That mindset runs through Typsim’s design language, with its mid-century influences subtly shaped by the creative and adventurous vibes of the Pacific Northwest.

“Typsim (‘tip-sim) is a watch company focused on high-quality, durable, and precise mechanical watches. The name is derivative of abbreviations coming from my professional life as an architect. Typ = typical and sim = similar. Like MUJI or ACME, the name is meant to invoke non-branded, quality goods – in this case watches.”

-TYPSIM

Be sure to follow them on Instagram at @TypsimWatches or stay connected and up to date via their website

Big thanks to the Vancouver Timepiece Show for creator and media access for these conversations. Keep your eye on timepieceshow.com for updates on the upcoming Toronto Timepiece Show.

🎧 Subscribe and listen to the full episode now wherever you get your podcasts or support the Analog Explorer on Substack.

Elliot Brown Watches

What sets Elliot Brown apart is their obsession with durability and real-world performance. They’re not just building watches, they’re building tools; from their Canford with its dual crowns and an internal bezel and shock-resistant cases, to the Holton Professional, a watch originally developed for military and special forces use, and onto now their patented achievment of the Beachmaster. Every model is designed with usability and legibility in mind. Whether you’re exploring the outdoors, navigating the everyday grind, or knocking down doors for a living, Elliot Brown watches are built to thrive where others don’t.

I’ve been wearing my Holton for a while now, and it’s a well-loved tool. Its biggest draw, as I’ve said on many podcasts, is that it’s unapologetically legible. With its bold no-nonsense lume and a dial that reads clean in any light, even in our often murky PNW waters, it is a solid tool. I’ve taken it diving in the Salish Sea, trekking through the North Cascades, and it’s handled everything without missing a beat. It’s the kind of watch that doesn’t clamor for attention, but quietly earns its keep, one adventure at a time. Every nick in the case tells a story…especially the first. I shared this one over on the Zulu Time Podcast, but it’s worth retelling: while setting up for a dive, my Holton took a nose dive off the bed of my dive partner’s pickup truck. It dropped over five feet right onto, of course, the only rock in the vicinity. I braced for the worst, expecting a chipped or cracked crystal. But when I picked it up…the scratch wiped clean off the case and crystal, and the only mark left behind was a small dent/nick in the case. Surely, I thought, the movement had to have taken a hit. But after the dive, I checked the timing, and it hadn’t skipped a single beat, not even by a second. Honestly, I think that rock came out of it worse than the Holton did.

Holton at about 6200ft in the N. Cascades

ajbarse

A post shared by @ajbarse

Holton Diving in the PNW

ajbarse

A post shared by @ajbarse

Shifting Sands of Global Trade

This conversation also kicks off a broader theme you’ll hear woven throughout my interviews from the Vancouver Timepiece Show—what I’m calling “The Shifting Sands of Global Trade.” As collectors, makers, and enthusiasts, we usually focus on the watches themselves: what we do with them, where they take us, and the stories they help us tell. But lately, shifting global politics, trade policies, and ever-changing tariffs are starting to impact what could actually make it to our wrists in the first place. It’s a side of the #watchfam story we don’t always talk about, but one that’s becoming harder to ignore.

At the time of recording and publication, Elliot Brown has announced that they have halted sales to the United States due to ongoing tariff challenges.

🇺🇸 Important update for our USA Customers: Due to the recent introduction of significantly increased tariffs on all imports into the United States by President Trump, we’ve had to make the difficult decision to temporarily pause all sales to the USA.

We’re actively exploring solutions and will resume shipping as soon as we can do so fairly—for you and for us.
-Elliot Brown Watches

This is just one example of how trade decisions ripple across borders and hit small, independent brands. This sentiment is echoed by other voices from other independent watchmakers, and we’ll hear how these global forces are, and could continue, shaping their corner of the horological world. From sourcing materials to getting watches into the hands of collectors….

Be sure to follow them on Instagram at @EBwatches or check out their Journal to stay connected, and stay up to date via their website elliotbrownwatches.com

Big thanks to the Vancouver Timepiece Show for creator and media access for these conversations. Keep your eye on timepieceshow.com for updates on the upcoming Toronto Timepiece Show.

🎧 Subscribe and listen to the full episode now wherever you get your podcasts or support the Analog Explorer on Substack.

We’re back with Season 5 of the Analog Explorer Podcast, and we’re kicking things off with the first special episode recorded live at the inaugural Vancouver Timepiece Show, held April 25–27, 2025, at the historic Pipe Shop Venue in North Vancouver, British Columbia.

Subscribe now

On the podcast, I sat down with Jason Hutton, the producer behind both the Vancouver and Toronto Timepiece Shows, and the founder of ZENEA Watches. We chatted just outside the venue on a surprisingly perfect, and yet rare, PNW sunny spring afternoon, talking about the motivation behind bringing a watch show to Vancouver, what goes into organizing something like this, and the unique energy that independent and microbrand communities bring to the #watchfam and the Vancouver watch scene.

In the episode, Jason shares why he believes shows like this matter; not just for brands, but for collectors, creators, and anyone who loves the process and people behind the horology in any way. He explains how his experience as a brand owner helps shape how he approaches running these shows, and how much thought goes into creating a space that’s welcoming and accessible. We also talk about why Vancouver made sense as the next stop for a major Canadian watch show, the growing excitement around microbrands in Canada.

This episode is the first in a series of episodes from the Vancouver Timepiece show. It will feature conversations with some of the people behind the brands that were part of the show, many of which are right in the Analog Explorer's wheelhouse.

If you missed the event, this is a great way to get a feel for the atmosphere and hear from the folks shaping the future of your favorite microbrands

🎧 Subscribe and listen to the full episode now wherever you get your podcasts or support the Analog Explorer on Substack.

Show Notes & References

• Web | Timepiece Show

• Instagram | Vancouver Timepiece Show

• Instagram | Toronto Timepiece Show

• ZENEA Watches

Welcome to Analog Explorer – Season 5!

If you’re new to The Analog Explorer, welcome aboard! This bonus episode is a great place to jump in with a brief background on who I am and how this podcast came to be. And if you’re a returning listener, welcome back! I truly can’t thank you enough for subscribing and continuing to support the show.

We’re starting Season 5 a little differently. Coming to the feed are interviews, or “tales” as I like to call them, from some of our “friends in the watchfam” who are behind some of our favorite brands that feel very Analog Explorer-adjacent. These were captured live on the expo floor at the inaugural Vancouver Timepiece Show, held last weekend April 25–27, 2025.

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The show took place at the wicked cool restored Pipe Shop Venue in North Vancouver’s Shipyards District and was brought to life by Jason Hutton, founder of ZENEA Watches and the Toronto Timepiece Show. With 55 brands from across the globe, it was a full-on celebration of the independent and microbrand scene packed with innovation, craftsmanship, and that unmistakable #watchfam, and Canadian, energy.

Thanks again for tuning in, and for being part of this growing community.

Stay tuned to the feed—there is more to come!

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Available on Spotify, or wherever you like to podcast.

Analog Explorer Supporters

As a valued supporter, this month, I have something a little special— a full video episode. Thank you again so much for your continued support for such a full season of the Analog Explorer this year!

🇺🇸 America Wasn’t Assembled; It Was Built.

Vortic Watches, proudly based in Colorado, has carved out a unique niche by restoring and preserving vintage American timepieces while also promoting the future of modern American watchmaking and manufacturing. In this episode, R.T. takes us through the past decade and Vortic’s journey, from their early use of 3D printing to their legal fight defending artisanship and upcycling against the major Swiss conglomerate Swatch (Hamilton) in court. We also explore the exciting creation of the Colorado Watch Company in partnership with Fine Timepiece Solutions (FTS).

Passion for America and Storytelling

Vortic Watches is more than just a company—it’s a movement built on creativity, American manufacturing, upcycling, and history preservation. Many of us in the #watchfam believe that every watch tells a story. But unlike most brands that craft a story for marketing, Vortic leans into authentic history. Many of Vortic’s clients bring their own familial and historical pocket watches to the company, entrusting them to encase these family heirlooms to be worn contemporarily so their stories can be retold. It’s this deep connection to history, paired with an unyielding passion for American manufacturing, that makes each Vortic less about the object they create and more about where it has been—and more importantly, where it’s going.

3D Printing and Kickstarter Roosts

On this episode, R.T. reflects on the company’s humble beginnings, which started as a school project at Penn State. Back then, R.T. and his co-founder Tyler took their innovative business plan from the classroom to their creative space- the golfing green. Their breakthrough came through 3D printing technology, which allowed them to rethink what American manufacturing could look like, converting vintage American pocket watches into modern wristwatches. Rebuilding American manufacturing was the guiding principle that became Vortic’s ethos of innovation and preservation. Many of us in the #watchfam forget that America was once the global leader in precision watchmaking, on par with how Swiss timekeeping is known today. American-made railroad-grade pocket watches were some of the most sought-after timepieces during the steam train boom and Industrial Revolution era.

In today’s age of global manufacturing and marketing, Vortic stands out with its motto, “America wasn’t assembled; it was built.” In watchmaking, Vortic is on track to make the most American-made watches (to scale) since those early pocket watch days.

I remember when Vortic first came on the #watchfam scene ten years ago. As an academic researching the “makerspace movement,” I came across R.T. and Vortic’s story in its early days. Back then, I was teaching 3D printing workshops and often cited Vortic as a case example to my students of what 3D printing can do beyond the classroom.

Whether you’re a watch enthusiast, a lover of American history, or someone who appreciates American manufacturing or craftsmanship, this episode offers a deep dive into the passion and vision that fuels Vortic Watches—and now the Colorado Watch Company.

Analog Explorer ™ is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.

Analog Explorer Episode 26 | “America wasn’t assembled, it was built”

The Lawsuit: Battling for Craftsmanship and Upcycling

One of the defining moments in Vortic’s journey was their legal battle against Swatch, a major Swiss conglomerate. Swatch sued Vortic over trademark issues related to Vortic’s use of antique Hamilton watch dials in their restorations. R.T. opens up about the emotional and financial toll of the lawsuit, which struck at the heart of Vortic’s mission: preserving historical timepieces and transforming them into something new. Vortic stood firm, defending not only their right to restore and repurpose but also championing the larger cause of artisanship and upcycling.

This victory wasn’t just for Vortic—it set a legal precedent for all American artisans everywhere, protecting the right to repurpose and breathe new life into vintage goods. It’s a triumph that ensures creativity and craftsmanship can continue to thrive in a world increasingly dominated by mass (global) production.

Jack Ryan and Vortic Watches: On-Screen Spotting

For fans of the Amazon Prime series Jack Ryan, you might have caught a glimpse of Vortic Watches on the wrists of actors in the show. R.T. shares the thrill of seeing their watches on-screen. More than just a moment in the spotlight, this recognition is a testament to the growing appreciation for Vortic’s craftsmanship. In many ways, the relentless pursuit of truth by the character Jack Ryan mirrors Vortic’s mission to preserve American history, one watch at a time.

What’s Next: Colorado Watch Company and FTS Partnership

Looking to the future, RT discusses Vortic’s exciting collaboration with Fine Timepiece Solutions (FTS), an Arizona-based company specializing in American movement manufacturing. Together, they are launching the Colorado Watch Company, which promises to produce the most American-made watch at scale in the United States. Unlike Vortic’s focus on restoring vintage timepieces, the Colorado Watch Company will produce fully new watches using American movements and materials.

This partnership represents a monumental step forward in domestic watchmaking. With FTS’s expertise in precision movements, the Colorado Watch Company is poised to deliver high-quality, fully American-made watches that will be accessible to a broader audience without compromising craftsmanship. R.T.’s mission is to make Colorado Watch Co. 100% Made in America, by improving on their manufacturing 1% every year. And I believe, by the time our kids are old enough to drive, he might be able to achieve it! 🇺🇸

Analog Explorer Supporters

As a valued supporter, this month, I have something a little special—early access to the full video episode. Thank you again so much for your continued support for such a full season of the Analog Explorer this year!

🇺🇸 America Wasn’t Assembled; It Was Built.

Vortic Watches, proudly based in Colorado, has carved out a unique niche by restoring and preserving vintage American timepieces while also promoting the future of modern American watchmaking and manufacturing. In this episode, R.T. takes us through the past decade and Vortic’s journey, from their early use of 3D printing to their legal fight defending artisanship and upcycling against the major Swiss conglomerate Swatch (Hamilton) in court. We also explore the exciting creation of the Colorado Watch Company in partnership with Fine Timepiece Solutions (FTS).

Passion for America and Storytelling

Vortic Watches is more than just a company—it’s a movement built on creativity, American manufacturing, upcycling, and history preservation. Many of us in the #watchfam believe that every watch tells a story. But unlike most brands that craft a story for marketing, Vortic leans into authentic history. Many of Vortic’s clients bring their own familial and historical pocket watches to the company, entrusting them to encase these family heirlooms to be worn contemporarily so their stories can be retold. It’s this deep connection to history, paired with an unyielding passion for American manufacturing, that makes each Vortic less about the object they create and more about where it has been—and more importantly, where it’s going.

3D Printing and Kickstarter Roosts

On this episode, R.T. reflects on the company’s humble beginnings, which started as a school project at Penn State. Back then, R.T. and his co-founder Tyler took their innovative business plan from the classroom to their creative space- the golfing green. Their breakthrough came through 3D printing technology, which allowed them to rethink what American manufacturing could look like, converting vintage American pocket watches into modern wristwatches. Rebuilding American manufacturing was the guiding principle that became Vortic’s ethos of innovation and preservation. Many of us in the #watchfam forget that America was once the global leader in precision watchmaking, on par with how Swiss timekeeping is known today. American-made railroad-grade pocket watches were some of the most sought-after timepieces during the steam train boom and Industrial Revolution era.

In today’s age of global manufacturing and marketing, Vortic stands out with its motto, “America wasn’t assembled; it was built.” In watchmaking, Vortic is on track to make the most American-made watches (to scale) since those early pocket watch days.

I remember when Vortic first came on the #watchfam scene ten years ago. As an academic researching the “makerspace movement,” I came across R.T. and Vortic’s story in its early days. Back then, I was teaching 3D printing workshops and often cited Vortic as a case example to my students of what 3D printing can do beyond the classroom.

Whether you’re a watch enthusiast, a lover of American history, or someone who appreciates American manufacturing or craftsmanship, this episode offers a deep dive into the passion and vision that fuels Vortic Watches—and now the Colorado Watch Company.

Read more

Etienne Malec is the founder and Chef d’Orchestre behind Baltic Watches. He is a photographer, classic car collector, and a friend of ours in the #watchfam.

What draws so many of us to Baltic Watches is the symphony Etienne has orchestrated of vintage design, modern manufacturing, and affordable watches. While Baltic Watches pays homage to design concepts of the past, Baltic has formed its own unique design language that makes its watches stand out with every new release. There is always something that resonates in the #watchfam with a Baltic watch. In this episode, we explore its beginnings.

Baltic Beginnings

Etienne’s passion for watch collecting sparked when, at 16 years old, he finally opened an old suitcase, with over a hundred watches collected by his late father. Losing his father at the age of 5, Etienne had few living memories of his father or understanding of his passions. He began to connect with his father’s memory through the cars (which his mother unfortunately sold as they took up too much space), cameras, and, more importantly, the watches that his father collected. “My passion for watchmaking was born the day I discovered my father’s watch collection. I sadly didn’t know him enough, he was a photographer, collector, and true enthusiast. For years, he minutely kept a diary in which he kept a trace of every watch that crossed his path in his life. “

His father was an avid collector, often meeting with watch collectors and trading watches in Paris, France. With every watch he acquired, traded, or sold, he meticulously documented each of them in a dedicated journal. Etienne immersed himself in these records and the collection. Through it, he developed his own deep passion for watches, watch design history, and maintaining vintage timepieces. “This adventure is the best tribute I could pay to my father and the ideal way to express my inspirations. From transmission to passion, from passion to creation.”

Founded in France in 2016, Baltic Watches launched successfully through Kickstarter a year later surpassing its €65,000 goal with €514,806 pledged by backers. Much of Baltic’s design ethos comes from Etienne’s explorations of his father's extensive watch collection. The name "Baltic" pays homage to Etienne’s father and familial roots, that of Poland's northern coast. The brand’s “C” symbolizes the “wave” from the Baltic Sea.

Etienne | Chef d’Orchestre (Conductor)

While chatting with Etienne, he mentioned that his role at Baltic is not that of a designer but rather that of a conductor. It’s a fitting perspective after getting to know him and what he has crafted into the brand.

Like a conductor leading an orchestra, each watch (and the film behind it) is like another movement in a symphony. Personally, I enjoy that with every new model release there is an ambient film created just for the launch. It isn’t quite a documentary, nor an aggressive marketing push, but rather a portrayal of the tone that Baltic felt when designing it. The film focuses on what the watch means to the team behind the brand and seeks to inspire their wearers to tell their own story.

Vintage Style | Watches & Cars

Etienne and Baltic Watches are passionate about celebrating vintage style and heritage in a way that can be taken out into the world by their wearer. Regardless if the adventure is on the summit of a peak, to the depths of the sea, at the desk of an office, or behind the steering wheel on track day, Baltic’s watches are meant to be worn.

In 2024, the brand is the official timekeeper of the Tour Auto, a prestigious classic car rally in France. This event celebrates vintage cars and showcases them in a race that combines both track and road stages, embodying a blend of history and competitive spirit that aligns perfectly with Baltic Watches' ethos.

Aquascaphe Bronze | Forged in Time

Since Baltic’s release of their original Aquascaphe, I have been a fan of what Etienne and Baltic have accomplished within the “microbrand” space of watch collecting. For my 2020 Father’s Day from my wife, I received the original (numbered) blue guilt dial Aquascaphe Bronze. Little did I know that this watch would be on my wrist nearly every day for an entire pandemic. Its travels, treks, and dives became milestones captured within the patina alongside the medical care of my son during that time.

It has seen the summit of Mt. Saint Helens (as well as many other peaks) and has dove with me in the emerald green waters of the Salish Sea and Puget Sound as well as the blue waters of the Gulf of Mexico. But it’s most unique patina tone comes from the daily topical medications my wife and I applied to our son through the first few years of his life.

Other references in the episode;

Baltic Watches

• Web | https://baltic-watches.com/

• Instagram | @balticwatches

Filmmaker behind Baltic films

• Antoine Pai - Instagram @antoinepai

Showrooms

Baltic Experiments

• A perpetual watch for Only-Watch, but more in the works

US Independence Day 2024

• Launch of the MR Roulette!

During World War II, the COPP (“Combined Operations Pilotage Parties”) were specialized units within the British armed forces that were tasked with reconnaissance and covert operations in preparation for amphibious landings. Their primary mission involved conducting detailed surveys and reconnaissance of potential landing sites to gather critical information for future military operations. This included assessing beach conditions, identifying obstacles, and ensuring safe landing zones for larger invasion forces; including the Normandy landings on D-Day.

• https://www.combinedops.com/COPPs.htm 

• https://www.coppsurvey.uk/

Combined Operation history

• https://www.combinedops.com/

COSD | more than just a “Tuna-Can” Longines watch design

The COSD (“Company Ordnance Supply Depot”) was involved in research and development, tasked with creating and improving specialized equipment needed for amphibious landings and commando operations. If you are like me and are a James Bond fan, the best way to think of COSD is to think of them as the real-life Q branch. If there was a new piece of kit that needed to be made, they were the ones that would make it or would make and set out the spec for someone in the industry to make it for them.

COSD developed everything from specialized landing craft, underwater devices, and other tools necessary for successful operations behind enemy lines. In addition to research and development, COSD was responsible for training personnel in the use of newly developed equipment and the latest tactics for combined operations. Testing and evaluation were also key functions of the COSD, involving extensive testing of new tactics and equipment to ensure their effectiveness and reliability under combat conditions. This often included live exercises and simulations to replicate the conditions of actual operations. COSD played a pivotal role in devising new tactics for amphibious assaults and raids, essential for the success of operations right up to the D-Day landings in Normandy.

COPP X COS

In World War II, COSD spec watches were specialized timepieces issued by the British Combined Operations command to their elite units, including the Combined Operations Pilotage Parties (COPP). These watches were crucial for the precise timing and coordination required during amphibious landings and other specialized missions.

COSD watches were known for their durability, reliability, and clear readability under various conditions. This specific watch would have been considered a technology for operators designed as a “killer app” in build and functionality. They featured luminous hands and markers for visibility in low-light conditions, robust cases to withstand harsh environments, waterproofing, and accurate movements. These features, or killer apps, made them essential tools for successfully executing complex and time-sensitive operations during the war.

One of the best-known of this spec was the Longines COSD watch.

• Longines COSD c. 1945 https://finest-hour.co.uk/product/longines-c-o-s-d-tuna-can-british-military-wristwatch-c-1945/ 

• Longines reissue COSD https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-longines-heritage-military-cosd 

• A look back at the Longines Heritage Military COSD (reissue) https://timeandtidewatches.com/a-look-back-at-the-longines-heritage-military-cosd/

Langstone, Hayling Island, and D-Day

Langstone, a village in Hampshire, England, was crucial during World War II as the base for the Combined Operations Pilotage Parties. Langstone Harbour provided an ideal setting for training COPP units due to its varied coastal features, including beaches, estuaries, and tidal conditions, allowing personnel to practice and refine their reconnaissance and amphibious landing skills in conditions similar to those they would encounter on actual missions. Situated on the southern coast of England, Langstone's strategic location was essential for planning and executing reconnaissance missions and amphibious operations against German-occupied territories.

• Langstone Harbour
  https://www.historytools.org/stories/langstone-harbour-a-hidden-gem-of-d-day-history 

• Langstone Hotel (monument) https://www.facebook.com/langstonequays/photos/a.107206646007805/2305106049551176/?type=3

• Langstone Quays Resort (today)- https://www.langstonequays.co.uk/home

LANGSTONE FIELD WATCH

• Bausele Langstone 80th D-Day commemorative watch. https://www.bausele.com/products/bausele-langstone-field-watch-d-day-80th-anniversary-tribute-australian-dive-watches 

“The watch that honours the daring and clandestine operations of the English kayakers of the COPP (Combined Ops Assault Pilotage Parties) who conducted reconnaissance along potential landing beaches during WWII. It is name from the English Langstone Hotel that housed these brave kayakers. This watch integrates a piece of history with sand from Normandy's SWORD Beach, encapsulating the spirit of the COPPists' missions. DELIVERY END OF AUGUST.

PRE-ORDER BY JUNE 06 : RECEIVE A COMMEMORATIVE PENDANT AS A GIFT

Until June 6th, all pre-orders of the Langstone come with an exclusive commemorative pendant crafted by AHW, a local Sydney jeweler. This unique piece features silver and Sword Beach sand from Normandy, encapsulated in durable Japanese resin. Secure this special gift with your order today! DELIVERY END OF AUGUST.”

Zulu Time Podcast